This is not a trend report. While covering menswear season after season, one thing became increasingly apparent to me: men’s fashion is getting less trend-driven. We’re also of the ethos of wearing what you want regardless of trends, and the idea that new micro and macro-trends are cropping up every season are antithetical to what is most important—crafting one’s own individual style.
We’re no longer distilling “trends”. Instead, we’re highlighting noteworthy things to look out for every season. Be it new interpretations of known aesthetics, fresh takes on a garment, or even specific collections of impact, we’re making sure you’re kept informed of the seasonal collections without feeling the need to adopt a new style persona.
And there’s no better time to kick off this refresh than with the Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear collections. As fashion brands attempt to woo consumers, the collections this season are replete with eye-catching first impressions. We’re not talking about brand names supersized on pieces (we’re more evolved than that), but rather the use of colours, details, and textures designed to stand out wherever one goes. There’s craft and nuance behind these elements too, because as we all know, attraction on the surface level isn’t all that lasting.
Secret Agent
It’s funny how in fiction, a secret agent typically has to defy detection yet dresses in stereotypical “secret agent” fashion. The long coat (often a trench of sorts), a smart two-piece ensemble with a tie to match, and then topped with a wide-brimmed hat do little to actually blend one in with the rest of the crowd. Perhaps that’s the idea with Autumn/ Winter 2025’s remix—a slightly meta way of blending in but actually standing out.
The base almost always starts with a suit and tie, but not necessarily so. If you’re opting for the former, a double-breasted works best for more visual heft around the waist especially when wearing an outerwear unbuttoned. The style calls for a more streamlined base so suit buttons should ideally colour-match the suit. For less uptight renditions yet still dressed up and elegant, look to Burberry’s interpretation that replaces the innermost layer with a turtleneck, or Tom Ford’s leather top which retains a dastardly handsome aesthetic.
The key piece that makes the fit is the outerwear. Instead of a traditional cotton trench coat, the update prefers luxurious leather iterations. Amiri and Saint Laurent’s leather coats perfectly adopt the look with their tailored cuts yet crafted to be fluid for unrestricted movement. For an easy fix, wear one completely buttoned up as per Wooyoungmi and Emporio Armani without needing to suit up under—no one has to know what lies beneath.
Feet Festive
Vans is one of those brands that have outgrown their origins and audience. It’s more than just a skate brand, and if you grew up in the noughties, you would’ve certainly owned a pair or five whether you’re a skateboarder or not. In fact, the original Vans Authentic silhouette is just shy of 60 years old this year and still has its own legion of fans.
As part of Valentino’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection, the Maison has collaborated with Vans on a series of colourful Vans Authentic sneakers. Six variations have been created, merging the iconic Vans checks with the Valentino VLogo Signature motif as well as other cheeky prints that celebrate the icons of both. What remains consistent are the lightweight canvas make, low-top design, and the rubber waffle outsole.
The way to wear them? Well, with just about anything really. Take cues from the collection by having the Valentino Garavani and Vans sneakers complete ensembles with shorts and denim jeans for perfect music festival options. Or ground more formal looks by pairing them with tailored flared trousers for that signature Alessandro Michele aesthetic.
Wild Furry
Given that it’s the Autumn/Winter 2025 season, coats are must-haves. Climate change is real and while winters are getting warmer, parts of the world have been experiencing short-term above-average winters. In other words, you never truly know how cold that winter holiday to Seoul or Tokyo will get.
Much like the ferocity of the frigid temperatures, the coats for the season are in a state akin to untamed nature. Shearling coats of all manner are part of every, if not most, collections and they’re hardly the subtle kind. Sacai’s Where the Wild Things Are-esque versions, while rendered as accents on outerwear, are as unruly as the inspiration behind them. Full, plush coats like those by Dolce&Gabbana, Fendi and Emporio Armani will undoubtedly keep one warm while also exuding that almost stereotypical aesthetic of an uppity and rich fictional villain. If that’s not your vibe, the more subtle executions have shearling accents as coat collars or interior linings, but done in the same ostentatious manner.
A New Ford Focus
Tom Ford’s brand of sexy returns, and this time, under the helm of Haider Ackermann. The French designer of Colombian origin was the former artistic director for Berluti, and is also the current creative director of Canada Goose. But Tom Ford is where his true fashion muscles are being flexed. Ackermann’s penchant for rich, jewel tones and tailoring have been merged with seductive Tom Ford style codes for a strong debut collection.
“Entering the house that Mr Ford built, I was drawn to the man himself, whose personality reverberates through everything he envisioned. He is nightlife, I am the morning after: this is where our dance begins,” Ackermann states in the collection notes.
Envisioning the collection as living in private rooms of clubs—where tension lies between unattainability and desire. The look is sharp, with no-frills tailoring as the cornerstone in classic Tom Ford blacks, greys and whites; with punches of highlighter pastels. Leather becomes part of the narrative as devastating outerwear as well as luxurious tops, while a devil-may-care attitude is consistent throughout.
It’s no easy task to bring sexy back, especially when it’s followed by the legacy that is Tom Ford. But looking at how Ackermann has formulated his debut, it’s not presumptuous to say that he’s got it right in the bag.
This article was first seen on ESQUIRE SG.
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