LUXUO explores what the recent concluded Men’s Autumn/Winter ’26 Fashion Week reveals about the current state of menswear. The pared-back Milan and Paris calendars this January were a reflection of a luxury sector under pressure. The absence of key players and the scaling back of major shows exposed a recalibration underway, as luxury brands rethink the role of menswear in an increasingly cautious market.
With fewer labels showing and several major names absent, Milan and Paris Men’s Autumn/Winter ’26 Fashion Weeks signalled a shift towards sartorial fundamentals and commercial reliability. Maisons placed an emphasis on what men will realistically wear, reach for in their closets and are more likely to invest in over time. This renewed focus was reinforced through artisanal leather and refined textures — positioning tactile quality as central to modern menswear’s value proposition.
Tailoring re-emerged as a cornerstone of modern menswear, ties quietly returned as styling signifiers, bags took on practical prominence and familiar menswear codes were reworked into hybrid forms of what streetwear once represented. Experimentation remained, but it was grounded in recognisable silhouettes and refined materials. In a season where Gucci did not show, Emporio Armani collapsed its menswear presentation and Zegna’s cultural influence appeares to have waned (for now), Men’s Autumn/Winter ’26 underscored a broader shift in priorities. What emerged from Milan and Paris was a reflection on how men dress today and how luxury brands must respond — commercially and creatively — to sustain their profit margins.
The Return of Tailored Suiting
Louis Vuitton (left), Giorgio Armani (right)
Suits are the backbone of menswear and where previous seasons saw the rise of streetwear, this season saw the return of the suit but with a twist. After seasons dominated by relaxed silhouettes, sharp tailoring is resurfacing as a core menswear language. Autumn/Winter ’26 saw suiting reclaim the spotlight, but not in a purely conventional sense. Dolce & Gabbana, Louis Vuitton and Ralph Lauren reinforced tailored staples, yet designers injected modern tension through unexpected pairings and material experimentation. At Louis Vuitton, Pharrell Williams referenced classic houndstooth and checks, but with reflective yarns and bonded shirting that gave traditional tailoring a technical, almost sculptural quality. The suit was also accompanied by the unmistakable resurgence of the tie.
Brunello Cucinelli (left), Ralph Lauren (right)
Brunello Cucinelli echoed this recalibration through softened blazers with subtly structured shoulders, paired with garment-dyed trousers featuring cargo and utility pockets. The reintroduction of the tie as a key accent signalled a renewed confidence in classic menswear codes, albeit relaxed and modernised. At Ralph Lauren, tailoring anchored both the brand’s Purple Label and Polo presentations. From cashmere sport coats to relaxed suiting silhouettes, tailoring was presented as lifestyle dressing rather than occasion wear, reinforcing its role as a long-term wardrobe staple. Meanwhile, Dior reframed tailoring through hybridisation. Cropped Bar jackets, elongated blazers and tailcoats were paired with denim, parkas and long johns, demonstrating how formal structure can coexist with experimentation.
The Rise of Purpose‑Driven Bags
Louis Vuitton (left), Hermes (right)
Accessories took on purposeful weight across Paris and Milan. Men’s bags this season are built to be used. There was a pragmatic shift toward functional silhouettes — crossbodies, utility pouches and structured totes — that underscore its utilitarian nature and everyday use. From Hermès’ reimagined Plume bags — including lightweight canvas versions with leather trims — to Dior’s slouchy knit messenger bags featuring Cannage stitching, Autumn/Winter ’26 emphasised just how menswear bags are built to be used. Louis Vuitton introduced silk-nylon hybrids and technical backpacks that balance durability with luxury, while still nodding to brand heritage with the Christopher backpack and the Shoulder Alma. Across shows, this utilitarian energy signals that accessories are an essential, commercially operational element of menswear.
Ralph Lauren (left), CELINE (centre), Dolce & Gabbana (right)
While Ralph Lauren anchored looks with Heritage Collection bags and Alpine boots, reinforcing the idea of accessories as lifestyle tools, Emporio Armani’s generous totes and crossbody bags reflected the prioritising of ease and movement. As menswear shows are further streamlined, accessories now carry a significant commercial weight making bags one of the most reliable revenue drivers on the runway.
Experimentation with Familiarity
Ralph Lauren (left), Louis Vuitton (right)
Across Paris and Milan, experimentation was grounded in familiarity. Outerwear was simultaneously wearable and experimental. At Dior, contradictions drove creativity. Technical bombers flowed into brocade capes, while military references collided with couture detailing. Bar jackets were reimagined in denim and technical fabrics, with cropped and elongated silhouettes offering versatile sartorial codes between formal and casual. Louis Vuitton highlighted performance-infused tailoring and workwear references, combining classic “gentlemanly” coats with technical fabrics and reflective fabrics. Even Hermès leaned into elongated silhouettes and geometric leather patchwork.
Tod’s (left), Acne (right)
This shift reflects men’s fashion reacting to practical needs by prioritising movement and catering to the elements without forsaking style — a response to cultural demand for functional, wearable luxury. Acne Studios explored the evolution of menswear codes through lived-in denim, elegant tailoring and heritage silhouettes such as the revived 1996 straight-leg jean. Trompe-l’œil treatments and visible repair played with illusion, but the foundation remained deeply recognisable.
Dior (left), Hermes (right)
At Dior, contradictions drove creativity. Technical bombers flowed into brocade capes, while military references collided with couture detailing. Cropped Bar jackets, elongated blazers and tailcoats were paired with denim, parkas and long johns — demonstrating how formal structure can coexist with experimentation. Hermès — under Véronique Nichanian — offered perhaps the clearest example of evolution without rupture. Elongated silhouettes, leather shirting and cropped jackets maintained balance and restraint. Archival references were folded seamlessly into new looks, reinforcing the idea that timelessness itself is innovation, as elongated silhouettes, leather shirting and cropped jackets anchored the collection.
Subtle Luxury
Louis Vuitton (left), Giorgio Armani (right)
Men’s Autumn/Winter ’26 saw the commercialisation of wardrobe staples with luxury detailings. The inclusion of intricate knitwear, elevated sweaters in cashmere, leather jackets and tailored coats were positioned as long-term investments rather than seasonal pieces. Tod’s exemplified this through its focus on leather — particularly the Pashmy project — where classic jackets were elevated through exceptional materials rather than trend-led design. The Winter Gommino also became a symbol of understated longevity. At Brunello Cucinelli, knitwear took centre stage. Cashmere, tweeds and Donegal fabrics were reworked into cosy cardigans and textured knits that could define an entire look. Celine — under Michael Rider — framed menswear as “everything you could need”. Classics with bite, clothes that feel necessary and personal, and fabrics that last reinforced the idea of menswear as a dependable wardrobe system.
Celine (left), Dior (right)
Dior’s knit tops paired with sequinned vests, Bar jackets over denim jorts and D-shaped boots borrowed from womenswear highlighted fluid, high-low styling. Hermès maintained elongated, balanced proportions while incorporating sensual materiality, including leather shirting, cropped jackets and archival nods that could appeal across traditional gender boundaries. Acne Studios echoed this through cashmere layering, argyle knits and refined outerwear archetypes such as Harrington and suede flight jackets.
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